Miami New Times
Sardinia Enoteca is Overrated
Get off to a rousing start by assembling your own antipasti platter from among meats (coppa, bresaola, prosciutto di parma), vegetables (braised fennel, roast beets, assortment of olives with wild fennel flowers), and cheeses (Gorgonzola, Taleggio), presented upon gorgeously garnished wooden boards, ideal for sharing over a quartino or two or three or four of wine. Sardinian chef and co-owner Pietro Vardeu has a bit of Mario Batali in him -- less dependent on strange animal parts but equally reliant on the smoke-imbued majesty brought to bear (and boar) by a roaring wood-fired oven. Try the branzino baked in salt crust, a Venetian recipe, brings pristine, juicy, mildly flavored white fillets -- delicious when kissed with a squeeze of lemon. Roasted whole octopus, braised rabbits and leeks, sweet ravioli drizzled with chestnut honey for dessert - yikes, this food is good.